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When curating a roll of London’s top eateries, one might foresee well-known award-winning names. But, nestled near the top among these food giants is a modest salonu found in a far-flung corner of northern London.

An Unexpected Accolade

This little Turkish spot, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. The recognition has left the proprietors totally shocked.

“I’m utterly astonished,” remarks the owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their humble restaurant securing such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its original character. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Stars

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for less than £25, equivalent meals at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not train at fancy restaurants. “I feel truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo beyond its own doors. “I believe many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this culinary honour.